On the island

The weather and wind finally calmed down (still a one to three metre swell that stopped boats being launched), and I had my first ever helicopter ride from the ship to the Macquarie Island base ‑ a trip lasting about one minute. The time consuming bit was putting a full body immersion suit on, and taking it off at the other end.

Had about 20 minutes to look around the base, which is on an isthmus between the main island and North Head. And for a piece of trivia, the ship 'Clyde' sank in the waters off the base in 1911. Elephant seals and Gentoo penguins are locals ‑ in fact station staff regularly have to shoo Elephant seals off the helipads. A bit of a sight ‑ telling a 3 metre, nearly 2 tonne animal to scoot. The secret is that these seals are intimidated by height and if you put your hands over your head and look really tall, the seals will do a wobbly retreat.

Anyway, enough digressions.

The Macquarie Island investigation team assembled and we were guided on a half day walk to inspect rabbit damage on the slopes around Hasselborough Bay, including Perseverance Bluff. The aim was to walk to near Handspike Point. This included traversing the 'featherbed' a mat of various vegetation that wobbles like its names‑sake because of the water beneath it. Amazing to see land rippling in front of you when you walk. Passed some Gentoo penguins and boulders, some of which opened their eyes and morphed into female Elephant seals. We enjoyed three seasons in one day ‑ some rain, but also beautiful light that bathed the slopes.

Many slopes were covered with dead tussock 'pedestals' ‑ which is all that is left of tussocks, some of which are about 100 years old, once the rabbits have finished with them. The real eye opener is the sheer scale of the rabbit damage ‑ they have trashed the nearly the whole island. The photos that I have seen ‑ and some of which we included in our slideshow on our web site ‑ simply don't communicate this reality. You have to see the damage in panavision to fully understand how grave the situation is. The only tussocks and cabbage the rabbits have yet to devour are the plants that are really close to the coast ‑ since the salt content of these plants don't gel with the rabbits taste buds. Essentially all the tussocks on the slopes in this area have been eaten, with any shoots quickly nibbled back until the plant has died.

The story was the same where ever we went. On the way back had a quick lunch, and then walked back on the coast track until we got to base.

Went into the mess and chatted to some of the expeditioners staying over winter ‑ a very inspiring group of people.